img{max-width:100%;height:auto}
:root{
  --terra:#b4472b; --terra-d:#8e3520; --saffron:#e7a83a; --sand:#f7efe2; --sand-2:#efe2cc;
  --ink:#1f1a17; --muted:#6b5f55; --line:#e3d5bf; --blue:#1d4e89; --green:#2f6b4f; --card:#fffaf2;
  --radius:16px; --shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(60,30,10,.06),0 8px 24px rgba(60,30,10,.07);
  --font:system-ui,-apple-system,"Segoe UI",Roboto,"Noto Sans","Noto Sans Arabic",Tahoma,sans-serif;
  --serif:"Iowan Old Style","Palatino Linotype",Palatino,Georgia,"Noto Naskh Arabic",serif;
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth;-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;font:17px/1.65 var(--font);color:var(--ink);background:var(--sand)}
img,svg{max-width:100%}
a{color:var(--terra-d);text-underline-offset:3px}
a:hover{color:var(--terra)}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);line-height:1.2;margin:0 0 .5em;letter-spacing:-.01em}
h1{font-size:clamp(2rem,5vw,3.2rem)}
h2{font-size:clamp(1.4rem,3vw,1.9rem)}
h3{font-size:1.15rem}
p{margin:0 0 1em}
.wrap{max-width:1180px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 20px}
.sr{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0 0 0 0)}
.skip{position:absolute;inset-inline-start:-999px;top:8px;background:#fff;padding:8px 12px;border-radius:8px;z-index:50}
.skip:focus{inset-inline-start:8px}
.muted{color:var(--muted)}
.lead{font-size:1.15rem;color:#3d342e;max-width:62ch}
.kicker{text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.12em;font-size:.78rem;font-weight:700;color:var(--terra);margin:0 0 .4em}

/* header */
.site-header{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:20;background:rgba(247,239,226,.92);backdrop-filter:blur(10px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.bar{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;height:62px}
.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);font-weight:800;font-size:1.08rem;margin-inline-end:auto}
.brand svg{width:34px;height:34px}
.brand b{color:var(--terra)}
.icon-btn{background:none;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;width:42px;height:42px;display:grid;place-items:center;cursor:pointer;color:var(--ink)}
.icon-btn svg{width:22px;height:22px;fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:2;stroke-linecap:round}
.lang{position:relative}
.lang summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;height:42px;padding:0 12px;display:grid;place-items:center;font-weight:700;font-size:.9rem}
.lang summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.lang-menu{position:absolute;inset-inline-end:0;top:48px;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;box-shadow:var(--shadow);padding:6px;display:grid;min-width:160px}
.lang-menu a{padding:8px 12px;border-radius:8px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink)}
.lang-menu a:hover,.lang-menu a[aria-current]{background:var(--sand-2)}
.main-nav{display:flex;gap:4px;overflow-x:auto;padding-bottom:10px;scrollbar-width:none}
.main-nav::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.main-nav a{white-space:nowrap;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);padding:6px 12px;border-radius:999px;font-size:.95rem}
.main-nav a:hover{background:var(--sand-2)}
.main-nav a[aria-current]{background:var(--ink);color:#fff}
.menu-btn{display:none}
@media (max-width:760px){
  .menu-btn{display:grid}
  .main-nav{display:none;flex-direction:column;padding:8px 20px 16px}
  .main-nav.open{display:flex}
  .main-nav a{padding:10px 12px;font-size:1.05rem}
  .brand span{font-size:.98rem}
}

/* search */
.search-panel{background:#fff;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:14px 0}
.search-panel input{width:100%;font:inherit;font-size:1.1rem;padding:12px 16px;border:2px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;background:var(--sand)}
.search-panel input:focus{outline:none;border-color:var(--terra)}
.search-results{list-style:none;margin:8px 0 0;padding:0;max-height:60vh;overflow:auto}
.search-results li a{display:block;padding:10px 12px;border-radius:10px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink)}
.search-results li a:hover,.search-results li a:focus{background:var(--sand-2)}
.search-results small{display:block;color:var(--muted)}

/* hero */
.hero{background:radial-gradient(120% 120% at 100% 0,#f4d58d 0,transparent 55%),linear-gradient(160deg,#fbf3e6,#f1e1c6);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.hero-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.15fr .85fr;gap:40px;align-items:center;padding:48px 20px 56px}
@media (max-width:900px){.hero-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;padding-top:28px}}
.cta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px;margin:20px 0}
.btn{display:inline-block;background:var(--terra);color:#fff;text-decoration:none;padding:12px 20px;border-radius:999px;font-weight:700}
.btn:hover{background:var(--terra-d);color:#fff}
.btn.ghost{background:transparent;color:var(--ink);border:2px solid var(--ink)}
.facts{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:24px 0 0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(130px,1fr));gap:12px}
.facts li{background:rgba(255,255,255,.65);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:12px 14px}
.facts strong{display:block;font-size:1.25rem;font-family:var(--serif)}
.facts span{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted)}

/* map */
.map{margin:0}
.map svg{width:100%;height:auto;display:block;direction:ltr}
.map .sea{fill:#dfe9f2}
.map .ocean{fill:#7b97b3;font-size:12px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:.06em}
.map .dot{fill:var(--terra);stroke:#fff;stroke-width:2}
.map .dot.on{fill:var(--saffron);stroke:var(--ink)}
.map .inset rect{fill:#eef3f8;stroke:#b9c9da;stroke-dasharray:4 3}
.map .lbl{font-size:12px;fill:var(--ink);font-weight:600;paint-order:stroke;stroke:#dfe9f2;stroke-width:3px}
.map .lbl.on{font-weight:800}
.map a:hover .dot{fill:var(--terra-d)}
.map figcaption{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:6px}

/* blocks & grids */
.block{padding:28px 0}
.band{background:var(--sand-2)}
.sec-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:12px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.grid{display:grid;gap:16px}
.cards{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(250px,1fr))}
.two{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(280px,1fr))}
.three{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(260px,1fr))}
.card{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);box-shadow:var(--shadow);text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);overflow:hidden;transition:transform .15s}
.card:hover{transform:translateY(-2px);color:var(--ink)}
.city-card .tile{display:block;width:100%;height:90px}
.card-body{display:grid;gap:2px;padding:14px 16px 16px}
.card-body strong{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.3rem}
.card-body span:last-child{color:var(--muted);font-size:.95rem}
.pillar{padding:20px;display:grid;gap:6px}
.pillar strong{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.25rem}
.pillar span{color:var(--muted)}
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:8px 0 4px}
.chip{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:7px 14px;border-radius:999px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);font-size:.95rem}
.chip:hover{border-color:var(--terra);color:var(--terra-d)}
.mini{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:14px 16px}
.mini strong{display:block;margin-bottom:4px}
.mini p{margin:0;color:#3d342e}
.where{display:inline-block;margin-top:8px;font-size:.9rem;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none}
.tag{display:inline-block;font-size:.72rem;font-weight:700;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.06em;background:var(--sand-2);color:var(--terra-d);padding:2px 8px;border-radius:6px;margin-inline-end:6px;vertical-align:middle}

/* page */
.page-head{padding:28px 0 8px}
.crumbs{font-size:.88rem;color:var(--muted);padding-top:16px}
.crumbs a{color:var(--muted)}
.city-head{display:flex;gap:20px;align-items:center}
.city-head .tile{width:96px;height:96px;border-radius:22px;flex:none}
.city-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 320px;gap:36px}
@media (max-width:900px){.city-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.city-head .tile{width:64px;height:64px}}
.content>p{font-size:1.06rem}
.side{display:grid;gap:16px;align-content:start}
.side .box{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:16px 18px}
.side h2{font-size:1.1rem}
.side dl{margin:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:6px 12px}
.side dt{color:var(--muted)}
.side dd{margin:0;font-weight:600}
.side ul{margin:0;padding-inline-start:18px}
.acts{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;display:grid;gap:10px}
.acts li{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;padding:12px 14px}
.tip{background:#fff6dd;border:1px solid #f1d58a;border-radius:var(--radius);padding:18px 20px;margin:20px 0}
.tip h2{font-size:1.15rem}
.hotels{display:grid;gap:14px;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(300px,1fr))}
.hotel{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:16px 18px;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.hotel header{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:10px;align-items:start}
.hotel h3{margin:0 0 6px}
.hotel p{color:#3d342e;font-size:.95rem}
.hotel dl{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:4px 12px;margin:0;font-size:.93rem}
.hotel dt{color:var(--muted)}
.hotel dd{margin:0;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.note{font-size:.9rem;color:var(--muted);border-inline-start:3px solid var(--saffron);padding-inline-start:12px}
.list{padding-inline-start:20px}
.list li,.steps li{margin-bottom:.5em}
.table-wrap{overflow-x:auto;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;background:var(--card)}
table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;font-size:.95rem}
th,td{text-align:start;padding:10px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}
th{background:var(--sand-2);font-weight:700}
tr:last-child td{border-bottom:0}
.toc{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px 14px;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:12px 16px;margin:10px 0}
.toc .foot-h{width:100%;margin:0;color:var(--muted)}
.sources ul{font-size:.9rem;padding-inline-start:18px}

/* footer */
.site-footer{background:#221c18;color:#e9dccb;margin-top:40px}
.site-footer a{color:#f4d58d;text-decoration:none;display:block;padding:3px 0}
.foot{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr repeat(3,1fr);gap:24px;padding:40px 20px 20px}
@media (max-width:800px){.foot{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}
.foot-brand{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.3rem;color:#fff}
.foot-h{font-weight:700;color:#fff;font-size:.85rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.1em}
.site-footer .muted{color:#b9a993}
.copy{border-top:1px solid #3a302a;padding:14px 20px;font-size:.85rem;color:#b9a993}

[dir=rtl] .facts,[dir=rtl] .crumbs{direction:rtl}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){*{scroll-behavior:auto!important;transition:none!important}}
.faq details{border:1px solid var(--line,#e6dccd);border-radius:12px;padding:.85rem 1.1rem;margin:.6rem 0;background:var(--card)}
.faq summary{cursor:pointer;font-weight:600;list-style:none;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem}
.faq summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.faq summary::after{content:'+';color:var(--terra,#b4472b);font-size:1.25rem;line-height:1}
.faq details[open] summary::after{content:'−'}
.faq details p{margin:.6rem 0 0}
/* photos */
.card-img{display:block;width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/10;height:auto;object-fit:cover;background:var(--sand-2)}
.city-hero{margin:8px 0 0}
.city-hero img{display:block;width:100%;height:clamp(220px,40vw,460px);object-fit:cover;border-radius:18px;background:var(--sand-2)}
.hero-photo{margin:0}
.hero-photo img{display:block;width:100%;aspect-ratio:4/3;height:auto;object-fit:cover;border-radius:22px;box-shadow:0 20px 50px -20px rgba(80,40,10,.45);background:var(--sand-2)}
.credit{font-size:.72rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:6px;line-height:1.4}
.credit a{color:var(--muted)}
.credit-card{margin:0;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;overflow:hidden}
.credit-card p,.credit-card .credit{padding:0 12px}
.credit-card .credit{padding-bottom:12px}
.city-head{display:block}
/* map */
.map-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.85fr 1fr;gap:18px;align-items:start}
@media (max-width:800px){.map-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.map-panel{background:#d9e6f1;border-radius:18px;overflow:hidden;border:1px solid #c6d6e6}
.map-h{margin:0;padding:8px 14px;font-size:.8rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.04em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#4d6782;background:#e8f0f7}
.map .lbl{font-size:15px}
.map .whole .lbl{font-size:13px}
.map .mnt{font-size:13px;fill:#9a7046;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;opacity:.85}
.map .mnt.big{font-size:20px;letter-spacing:.4em;opacity:.6}
.map .ocean{font-size:14px}
.map .zoombox{fill:none;stroke:#1d4e89;stroke-width:1.5;stroke-dasharray:5 4}
.side .map .map-panel{border-radius:14px}
[dir="rtl"] .map .mnt,[dir="rtl"] .map .ocean{letter-spacing:0}